Tuesday, July 19, 2016

Peeterman – A Happy Accident

I was scouring back though my brewing books trying to get motivation for a recipe, something different.  In Brewing with Wheat, by Stan Hieronymus, I came across a recipe for a Peeterman, a type of wheat beer.  It was bigger, sometimes darker and usually drunk fairly young.  It was similar to a Blanche de Louvain where “One third of the wort was brewed with hops.”

In that same section Hieronymus discusses how the beers from around Leuven (Louvain), Belgium were made.  One third of the wort was boiled with hops and the other two-thirds were ran straight into the fermenters.  These beers were tart to sour and so I thought, that this might be a perfect chance to make a modern take on this beer through kettle souring a portion.  I wanted to make a beer that was sour, but not too sour, and that didn’t have the chance to pick up any nasties. 

My idea was that I would make the wort, run off a third, and boil it with enough hops to contribute ~10 IBU to the entire volume.  The remaining two-thirds I would run off into a separate kettle and sour.  My idea of a modern take was to pre-boil the two-thirds wort for a few minutes and then pitch a 3 GoodBelly shots (Lactobacillus Plantarum) and let this sour for two days at 95*F.  Back to the first third, I treated it just as I would any of my beers, boiling it with the hops, cooling it to pitching temperatures, and then pitching yeast.  I would let this beer ferment for 2 days while the other portion was souring, as a kind of starter akin to the sake process, except on the second day I would boil the soured wort for 15 minutes and pour it back into the fermenting portion.  Get all of that?  It might take a flow chart…

My Modern Peeterman Process


My recipe looked like this:

Recipe: Peeterman
Style: Witbier
TYPE: All Grain
Date: 31 Mar 16

Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal  
Estimated OG: 1.065 SG
Estimated Color: 5.5 SRM
Estimated IBU: 10.5 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Boil Time: 75 Minutes

Ingredients:
6.00 ml           Lactic Acid (Mash 60.0 mins)
13.0 oz           Rice Hulls (0.0 SRM)                       4.9 %        
7 lbs 1.4 oz    Pilsner (2 Row) Bel (1.7 SRM)        42.8 %       
7 lbs 1.4 oz    Wheat, Raw (2.0 SRM)                    42.8 %       
15.1 oz           Oats, Flaked (1.0 SRM)                    5.7 %        
7.6 oz             Aromatic Malt (26.0 SRM)              2.9 %        
2.5 oz             Buckwheat, Raw (2.0 SRM)            1.0 %        
16.00 g           Crystal [6.00 %] - Boil 75.0 min     10.5 IBUs    
0.50 tsp          Yeast Nutrient (Boil 10.0 mins)
1.0 pkg           Belgian Wheat Yeast (Wyeast Labs #3942)

Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Batch Sparge
Mash In   Add 21.92 qt of water at 163.6 F        150.0 F       60 min       
Sparge: Batch sparge with 2 steps (Drain mash tun , 3.52gal) of 185.0 F water

Fermentation started at 68 degrees and finished at 73.

The execution of this recipe was a disaster.  Like anything for the first time, I was running around trying to figure out what the hell I needed to do next.  I had also convinced myself that I could do both batches at the same time.  This led to a couple of errors on brew day, not oxygenating the wort and totally missing my numbers.

Missing the oxygen didn’t turn out to be a big deal, but I had never used this much raw wheat in a batch, and I totally missed my numbers.  What was supposed to be a big, sweet finishing beer, ended up at 1.043 preboil and 1.059 in the smaller one-third portion.  By calculation, I figured I would have somewhere around a 1.050 OG beer.  I chalked it up to a lesson, and moved on. 

From there the beer went on great.  The sour portion acidified down to 3.5 pH by strip, which is a little better than measuring it with my tongue.  The yeast in the clean portion ripped through the wort and was already slowing down when I combined the two beers.  It finished out nicely, albeit a little higher, at 1.012, approximately 5.0% ABV, and 3.6 pH. 

So even though this was probably nothing like a Peeterman, it turned out a mighty fine beer.  More so than other kettle soured beers that I have tasted and made, this beer had a lot of character from the Saccharomyces yeast.  This was a nice welcome to a beer that could have just been sour.  The finished beer had a good sour finish, but you could still catch that nice Belgian character with a bit of bubble gum and stone fruit.  I could not detect any major flaws, but as the beer became warm there was an interesting phenolic note, that I don’t know if I could describe.  No one else who tasted the beer was able to detect it.  If there was anything I would describe it as, it would be like a burnt rubber or plastic, but very, very faint. 

The lesson I’ve drawn from this experience is one of blending, or you might call it portioning.  It might be the best way to create a sour beer.  Aside from making a separate acid beer and blending it with others, I think that splitting a beer like this makes it a bit easier depending on your system, process, and space available.  You don’t have as much control as you would blending an acid beer, but you could be pretty exacting once you worked the percentages out for your particular desires or recipe.  I will definitely do this again in the future, possibly leaving the sour portion un-boiled.  Maybe I’ll even do a cereal mash for all that raw wheat!


Friday, July 8, 2016

Licorice Root

I recently have been looking through some of my brewing books.  In particular, I’ve been fascinated by adding various botanicals to my beer, with the effect of flavor, but also other attributes.  In particular, I’ve been scouring through Homebrewer’s Garden by Dennis Fisher and Joe Fisher.  I like the way the book presents brewing herbs.  The authors give a brief description of the plant, how/where it is best grown, and then how it applies to brewing.  Most valuable of the brewing section of each herb, they usually give recommended amounts.

A lot has been thrown around on the Milk the Funk Facebook page about head retention in sour beers.  For whatever scientific reason, they many times go flat as soon as you pour them like a glass of champagne.   While reading the Homebrewer’s Garden book, one plant stuck out in my mind, licorice.   On page 88 of the book, the authors claim,

“Licorice has a long history as a brewing ingredient.  Licorice contributes a sweet flavor and long-lasting head to beer.  The characteristic flavor of licorice candy comes from anise, not licorice root.”

This got me thinking about how I could apply this in a sour beer.  It brings two things to the table that in my opinion that a sour beer needs, a touch of sweetness and head retention.  Before I went out and used it in a longer turnaround sour beer, I thought it would be good to add it to a quick turn around clean beer.  I hadn’t brewed a mild in a while, and I though it might be an excellent candidate.  Here is the recipe that I came up with to test out licorice:


Recipe: A Mild Lick      Brewed: April 19, 2016
Style: Mild
TYPE: All Grain

Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal  
Estimated OG: 1.036 SG
Estimated Color: 20.6 SRM
Estimated IBU: 15.1 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
6 lbs 3.8 oz   Maris Otter (Crisp) (4.0 SRM)                82.0 %       
9.7 oz            Crystal Malt 50/60L (55.0 SRM)            8.0 %        
7.3 oz            Crystal, Extra Dark (160.0 SRM)           6.0 %        
4.9 oz            Chocolate Malt (475.0 SRM)                  4.0 %        
10.00 g          Phoenix [10.50 %] - First Wort               60.0 min 15.1 IBUs    
7.00 g            Licorice Root                                           60.0 min   
0.50 Items     Whirlfloc Tablet                                       10.0 min
0.50 tsp         Yeast Nutrient                                          10.0 min
1.0 pkg          London Ale III (Wyeast Labs #1318)

Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Batch Sparge Equal Runnings
Mash In        Add 11.05 qt of water at 167.9 F       154.0 F       60 min       
Mash Step   Add 6.00 qt of water at 198.7 F         168.0 F       10 min       
Batch sparge with 2 steps (Drain mash tun , 3.53gal) of 185.0 F water



The licorice root I used was in little chunks about 1/8 inch in size. To get an idea of the flavor I made a tea of a couple of teaspoons of the root and a cup of water.  I let it steep for 10-15 minutes and sampled it.  It tasted nothing like the anise flavor that I had assumed it would have.

The beer came out very nice.  The actual numbers came out 1.035 OG, 1.012 FG, 3.06% ABV.  It was kind of a standard dark mild that was easy to crush 3-4 with out relying on the wall for support while staggering down the hallway afterward.  If I brewed it again, I would probably lower the chocolate malt by a percent, maybe lower the dark crystal (because I get a little bit of bitterness out of it), and pay closer attention to my carbonation.  I shot for 2.0 volumes, but I was probably a little closer to 2.5. 

What was amazing about the beer was the effect that licorice root had on what was a pretty ordinary beer.  First off, the sweetness was not what I thought it would be from the description.  It was very much in the background.  It had an artificial sweetener thing going on in a good way.  It also had the tiniest amount of an herbal note, which was nice but hard for me to describe.  What it did not have was the anisey note that we all know as licorice candy.

Second, the beer’s head retention was off the chart.  Granted there was quite a bit of crystal malt in the beer, but I saw way more lasting foam than other beers I have made with a comparable level of crystal malts.  And by off the chart, the beer laced the glass all the way down.  And it was the kind of lace that I had to scrub off with a scour pad, because the dishwasher wouldn’t get it off the glass.  It also hung around quite a while, too.  I left a glass of the beer out for thirty minutes and it still had an appreciable head.  Unfortunately, I have lost the photo that I took of it, so I guess you’ll have to take my word for it.


Summary: I think I have satisfied my curiosity and convinced myself that it would be worth a shot in any number of different sour beers.  It could go well in any number of quick sours, and at 7 grams per 5 gallons, it wouldn’t have too much of a flavor impact.  It could also work in some longer-term sour/brett beers, although I am not aware how Brett would interact with it chemically.  Brett might be able to break it down, but I’m not sure about that.  Another thing worth noting are the precautions associated with using licorice.  The herb uses up potassium in the body when consumed regularly, but at the tiny amount I used here, I doubt there would be any problems.  Also, it will eat up the fins on a recirculation pump, so put it in some kind of hopsack or mesh bag.